Quince is one of the Toronto must-try venues – a Mediterranean-inspired bistro with reasonable prices and fresh, innovative flavours. It has been rated as outstanding by the Eye Magazine and after receiving some mixed reviews from Toronto Life, also one of the Toronto’s Best New Restaurants of 2007. Formerly of the praised Stork on the Roof, the husband and wife team of Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel came back in fall of 2006 with this new midtown digs, only a couple blocks south of the busy intersection at Yonge and Eglinton.

Quince is surrounded by a cosy patio graced with teak furniture and a lot of bright-coloured cushions, but still located straight across the street from the abandoned hulk where an ill-famed nudie bar named Cheaters was once placed. Don’t be alarmed by the neon sign proclaiming “Adult video & Novelties” just two doors down from Quince and next to the popular restaurant Coquine, however inappropriate it may seem in a neighbourhood touted for its blossoming business district and family-friendly parks. But if you can remember, at least in the last 25 years, this stretch of Yonge Street between Eglinton and Davisville has always offered a diverse selection of places. You may find pretty much anything, starting from clothing boutiques to bead and paper stores, home decor to adult places.

Right at the door at Quince’s, we are kindly welcomed by a hostess and offered a spot near the bar on one of the low, cushioned banquettes. Pleading excessive height, we’re offered a selection of tables, which is a nice surprise for a Saturday night in this busy neighbourhood. I ask: “What’s downstairs?” We get an answer from our hostess: “Oh, that’s our private dining room.” Available for lunch and dinner and offering its own bar and lounge, the cozy room is elegantly decorated (though the tile floor is a tell that you’re in the basement). This space can host corporate or private groups of diners up to 40 people or cocktail receptions of up to 70 people. You can get a suggested menu along with matching wines, showing that the staff takes care of all the details.

We pick our table and almost instantly, our waiter appears with a short list of specials. I mean a brief list of specials consisting of a long explanation of ingredients and preparation methods, and how the meals go together. The waiter obviously has a really good knowledge of his field, explaining to us what is a garnish compared to a side dish. Personable, friendly and efficient – that is how I would describe him. He gives me a while to decide if ordering a whole sea bream is such a great idea, just points out apologetically: “Most people order a side with it, it’s just the fish.” And in the meanwhile, we can take a look around. The space of the dining room is airy and seemingly large, as clever lighting enhances its depth while adding a beautiful warmth and maintaining at least some level of intimacy. Another nice thing is the volume level – even though the place is nearly completely full, we can still easily have a conversation or listen to the background music (probably D’Angelo and Stevie Wonder). Modern art in earthy shades graces the loft-style exposed brick walls and adds balance to the exposed ductwork, which has been painted in chocolate browns to ease off any trace of sterility. Amazing for voyeurs, a semi-open kitchen offers a glimpse of the wood-fired oven behind the bar. If you wish to see the rest of our review, see the full Quince restaurant review.